So yesterday I was forced to attend a 100% Egybitian wedding from beginning to end. It couldn’t have been more Egyptian if it was in an alley with fairy lights strung up to an electricity pole to steal electricity from the neighbors.
I was forced to attend because it was the wedding of the daughter of one of my dad’s friends from school aka Upper Egypt where he was raised.
And so, for once, I attended a wedding which wasn’t:
- Held in one of Cairo’s 5-star hotels.
- A pompous, ostentatious affair to show how much money the family has, flying in flowers from I don’t know where costing tens of thousands of pounds, getting so-and-so to sing, etc
- A contest to see who looks the prettiest, with all the girls decked out in backless dresses or ones with plunging necklines (even if it’s the middle of the winter and freezing), acting all coy as they check out the guys and vice versa.
No, this was a wedding held in one of the military ballrooms,* where half the guests were dressed in normal clothes, coats even because it was cold, and some in jeans. A comfy affair. The girls who’d gone to an effort to dress up were, I’m sorry to say, hilarious looking. One memorable girl had ruined a perfectly normal strapless blue dress with an empire waist and silver belt by teaming it with an blue Indian bindi (no kidding!) and a blue turban with a hijab draped over her high bun, giving her hijab the appearance of a head-hard on. Oh, and what to do to cover her shoulders and chest? Wear a nude colored top underneath of course! And a humongous silver choker. Finishing touch: Cleopatra looking eye makeup. Classic.
So, from my perch on a corner table eating cashews, here are my observations on the wedding:
- First, the waiters brought in the drinks** by dancing a weird, Bollywood looking dance.
- The DJ then started playing the most random music (think Amr Diab’s songs when he was still a baby) ear-piercingly loud. He then made sure it went on continuously for the entire wedding, even when the people were eating. No romantic songs, just loud loud noise.
- An Arabic folklore singer dressed in a galabeya then began to sing strange, strange songs. It was Sayed El Shaeer, who’s been around longer than I’ve been alive. I actually enjoyed the first 5 minutes–he really pumps up the crowd–then despaired for the other half an hour. Do you really need rababa*** at a wedding and a sad song telling the groom to never forget his mother/ the bride never to forget her father?
- Then came a show I had never, not in my wildest dreams, imagined could be part of a wedding. For an entire hour we listened to one never ending beat, which grated on my nerves like you could not imagine. To this beat, a Sudanese/ Nubian troupe entertained the guests with, I kid you not: Fake Jamaican dancers (that’s a real photo of them I took!); a male dancer; female bellydancers covered from head to toe in red stretchy material; Rumi dancers; a tanoura dancer****; male dancers twirling handkerchiefs and making the guests get up and do the conga; and the highlight:
- Two male dwarfs dressed up as a bride and groom and role playing an Arabic song!! It was honestly one of the most distasteful thing I’d ever seen in my life, and so insulting to the two men! Even more insulting than Virgin Megastores in CityStars dressing up dwarfs as mini Santa Clauses during Christmas. That’s not to mention that the song was probably the worst choice ever for a wedding: Farid El-Atrash and Shadya’s Ya Salam Ala Hoby we Hobak, a song where the guy and girl are basically cussing each other out.
- Cherry on top: The food was wholesome and slightly congealed. No chocolate fountain here. Think kofta and rice. Found a hair in my food. You had to pay for tea if you ordered it. And it was Ahmed Tea.
- And for some reason, right outside the ballroom was a little fridge with cokes and Cadbury Dairy Milk for sale.
A night I will never forget. I am scarred for life.
* The Egyptian military owns lots of places, and they hire out ballrooms to make money. Go figure.
** For some reason any Egyptian wedding begins with fruit juice–mango, guava, strawberry, and cocktail for the bride and groom.
***Egyptian version of a violin.
**** An Egyptian folk dance consisting of a man twirling round and round with a parachute looking like thing.




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